Yes, I know, I should be packing, (Yes! I'm still packing!), but I've been watching the website pretty closely and I've noticed that Google has directed a few of you to this blog who are in search of solutions to some very specific fitting issues. Of course the "Google searchers" have been directed here based on the content that I have already written but what I find so interesting in how very specific and repetitious the search terms are. So far, the most popular Google search topics which bring new readers to the In-House Patterns Blog are:
Small Bust Adjustment: This is what I call the "ABC Bust Adjustment" which refers to cup sizes below a "D cup". You can find these posts here and here. There is also a link to one of the posts on Pattern Review's Knowledge Base.
Full Bust Adjustment: This is what I call the "EFG Bust Adjustment" which refers to cup sizes above a "D cup". You can find these posts here and here.
It seems these two posts are quite popular because these pattern corrections are specific to certain styling not just a basic block pattern with darts. The whole trick to any bust adjustment is to find a way to make a length and width adjustment to the front bodice, keep the styling intact and all the seam lines which join to the back the same length. To me, keeping the styling intact is really important. Adding a dart is not necessary if the garment already has adequate fitting lines.
Sleeve Fitting: I admit, I definitely struggled with sleeves too! The evidence is here! I've drafted several versions from several books with no satisfactory success until I discovered that I had already solved the problems I was having by "discovering" a sleeve I had already developed using the moulage method of draping. Moulage is basically a "second skin" which is draped on the form with no ease what-so-ever. This was a (temporarily forgotten) experiment I did after learning the method from a very wise and talented Technical Design Manager I once worked with. After adding the appropriate ease at the bicep for movement I had a perfectly fitting sleeve!
For the record, this perfectly fitted sleeve has 3/4" of ease at the sleeve head and 1 1/2" ease at the bicep and I often "forget" work I have already completed-sad but true.
Gaping Armhole: Ah yes, the gaping armhole! This is so common and so frustrating because this fitting issue affects the bodice and the sleeve. I covered this fitting issue here but I'm not sure I explored this to the degree it deserves so if you would like, I will do a more detailed post on this specific problem and it's solutions.
Gaping Back Neckline: This one was a surprise actually, I had no idea so many had this issue in their fitting projects! I covered it here using one method but there are others as I suggested in the post. Are you interested in learning how to do the others?
As I said, this has all been covered to one extent or another on this blog already but it leaves me wondering: are there any Google searches that you've done without finding the answer you're looking for? Is there anything you would like to have more detailed information on? I'd like to hear about it, perhaps we can find the solution together. If you have any questions about the fitting issues or content covered here just let me know and I will try to answer your questions the best I can.