In Fitting Fashion / pattern corrections

  • The Kimono Tee Small Bust Adjustment

    Today I have prepared step by step instructions for making a Small Bust Adjustment specifically for the In-House Patterns Kimono Tee.  Since the Kimono Tee pattern has been developed specifically for a D-Bust cup size, a smaller cup size will require a pattern adjustment to reduce some of the volume that will be present over the bust area.  Don't fret, the fix is so easy!   Step One:  Draw in the slash lines to prepare for the pattern adjustment. Step Two:  Cut along the slash lines leaving a hinge at the side seam.   Step Three:  Overlap the pattern sections as...

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  • The Cowl Front Neck Drop Adjustment

    Yesterday I got a great question from Marta who recently purchased the Cool Cowl Tank pattern:

    "I just purchased your cowl neck pattern. I was so pleased that your patterns are made for a D cup. Now that the pattern is made up I have a problem. The drape is so low that the bottom band of my bra shows:-( So, I looked up one of your blogs to see what to do about it. Your solution is to fold out (or overlap) from the CF waist. But this will reduce the front bust circumference, and I can't "afford" to make it any tighter across the bust. Is there any other way to raise the drape? I can wear the top, but have to pin it together to keep the drape from revealing more than is modest."

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  • Back Contour Shaping

    It seems that my previous posts about fitting the back shoulder and neckline are quite popular so I will revisit the gaping back neckline issue I discussed in one of the fitting posts for Vogue 8664.  Remember this?        As you can see, I corrected the gaping back neckline issue by adding a dart which eliminated the excess length in the neckline and addressed the contour of the shoulder blade.  In most basic block patterns this back contour shaping is addressed by a shoulder dart which is usually placed at the middle of the shoulder seam and points...

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  • Fitting and Pattern Correction - Back Bodice

    We're almost done fitting the bodice of Vogue 8664, we just have a few slight adjustments to make to improve the back pattern.  If you missed any of the progress, catch up by reading the previous posts, I'll wait... 1.  Garment Ease 2.  Fitting - Bust, Waist, Hip Position 3.  Pattern Correction - Bust, Waist, Hip Position 4.  Fitting and Pattern Correction - Back Neckline Gaping 5.  Fitting - Shoulders 6.  Fitting and Pattern Correction - Armhole Great!  Now that you are all caught up.  Let's take a look at the back bodice fitting.  You will remember from last time...

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  • Fitting and Pattern Correction - Armhole

    Hi everyone!  We're back to fitting the shoulder and armhole area of Vogue 8664.  Hopefully you'll stay a bit and follow along.  Last time, we talked about fitting the shoulder area and I mentioned that there were some adjustments we needed to make to the shoulder width and the across back on the pattern and below you will see I have outlined them. The first photo shows the original seam lines on the pattern, the last photo shows the seam line of the corrected shoulder and across back, and the center photo shows the comparison between the two.  Looking at...

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