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Step One: Draw in the slash lines to prepare for the pattern adjustment.
Step Two: Cut along the slash lines leaving a hinge at the side seam.
Step Three: Overlap the pattern sections as shown in the image below. Make sure the hinge at the side seam stays intact as you overlap the upper shoulder/armhole section and that the CF of the upper neckline section remains aligned with the CF of the lower body section. Once everything is secured in place, redraw the shoulder seam between the notches with a nice smooth line.
The amount of the overlap will depend entirely on your bust size. It is best if you make a mockup of the pattern and try it on to see how much volume you will need to remove, but here are some guidelines to get you started:
That's it! It's that easy.
Happy summer sewing!
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If you've landed here looking for free tutorials for fitting your latest sewing project, there is a lot to explore here. Take a look around, I hope you find some insight and inspiration here.
For the most current tutorials visit https://www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/ Just click on the image below and you'll land right where you need to be!
After the jump you'll find step by step instructional videos related to pattern making, fitting and garment design. This is where you'll find all the In-House Patterns tutorials going forward.
Looking for an in-person workshop or online course to build your skills? I've got those for you too! CLICK HERE to get all the details!
I'll see you there!
Alexandra
]]>Fitting is a challenge and even more so when you are fitting yourself. I think I've heard the phrase "I don't have a fitting buddy" more often than I can count. Believe me, I understand. Fitting yourself often means you need to be as flexible as a gymnast and have eyes on the back of your head. Sometimes mirrors and cameras and the help of your husband or partner just won't cut it so I created a new workshop that I think will help you out immensely.
It's The Fitting Fun Workshop on November 17, 18, and 19, 2017.
Click the image below for all the details!
In this three day event, you'll finally understand the fitting process fully by putting the techniques you learn into practice while working on your own personal fitting project. Working through your personal fit issues along with other participants will truly make fitting fun instead of a chore. To top it all off you'll be getting expert guidance along the way.
Here's what you can expect in this intimate and personalized workshop:
DAY ONE: Demystify the Fitting Process
Develop an understanding of how patterns are developed and learn how your body measurements, pattern measurements and ease can provide important information about the fit of your sewing pattern. You'll learn how to use the perfect fit worksheet to assess your pattern for fit.
DAY TWO: Put it into Practice
Get expert guidance as you work through the fitting fundamentals technique on your chosen sewing pattern. I'll take you step by step through the fitting process of your personal project. You'll make the initial pattern adjustments and cut and stitch a fitting sample of your garment.
DAY THREE: Perfect the Fit
Learn how to solve your personal fitting issues specific to your chosen project. See and learn from the projects of the other participants. We'll work through each participants first fitting sample to get a clear understanding of how to assess and solve those draglines, wrinkles and folds.
Here's what you'll get:
A clear understanding of the fitting process
Practical strategies for assessing fit
The skills to adjust patterns
The confidence to tackle any fitting project
21 hours of guidance and instruction
Real life examples of a myriad of fitting issues courtesy of your fellow participants
A small class size for lot's of individual attention (maximum is 8 people)
Lunch, refreshments and parking each day
You can get all the details and pre-register for the workshop here:
I hope you'll join me! I'd love to help you through your next fitting project.
All My Best,
Alexandra
If you've missed the previous lessons in the series, I encourage you to watch them. They are loaded with essential information you'll need for pattern manipulation.
Just click the links below to watch:
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Two Essential Skills for Successful Pattern Manipulation
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to Create and Balance a Flared Skirt
Now let's design the trumpet sleeve pattern. Watch the video to find out how!
As I mentioned in the video, get your FREE Scaled Block Patterns to practice your pattern work. Click the image below to get started!
Click the image to see the Pinterest Board.
If you've enjoyed this series on pattern making and want to build your own made to measure and custom fit pattern block, I currently have two online courses covering stretch knit pattern making where you will get individual support from me as you draft, fit and refine your personal blocks. Click the image to learn more about my Custom Stretch Knit Pattern Making courses.
If you have questions or comments, post them below or send me an email!
All My Best,
Alexandra
]]>Here we go with video #4 of the Pattern Fundamentals series!
In the last three videos we've practiced lots of dart manipulations. Each video building your pattern making skills and hopefully giving you the confidence you need to make pattern adjustments for fit and style. I guarantee that you'll find something new and inspiring in each one of the previous videos so if you missed any of the lessons, just click the links below to watch.
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Two Essential Skills for Successful Pattern Manipulation
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart
This week we’re going to take everything we’ve learned and apply it to the basic skirt block. I’ll show you how to manipulate waist darts to create flare, how to balance the flare so that it hangs evenly all around the hemline, and talk a little bit about grain lines so you can understand how it's placement can change the look and hang of your skirt.
I hope you enjoy it!
As I mentioned in the video, get your FREE Scaled Block Patterns to practice your pattern work. Click the image below to get started!
Now tell me in the comments, are you following along with the series? Did you learn something new? What was it?
Don't forget to share your pattern work!
All My Best,
Alexandra Morgan
]]>In the last two videos I showed you how to rotate darts, how to true them up and how to manage large dart volumes. If you missed those just click the links below to watch.
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: Two Essential Skills for Successful Pattern Manipulation
PATTERN FUNDAMENTALS: How to True Darts and Manage Dart Volume
Today's video covers three ways to manipulate the back shoulder dart. We'll cover how to rotate it to the neckline, how to create a yoke seam and how to eliminate it entirely without affecting the fit. If you've already read this popular article, you'll find that this week's video brings it all to life.
Enjoy!
As I mentioned in the video, get your FREE Scaled Block Patterns to practice your pattern work. Click the image below to get started!
Share your pattern work from the Pattern Fundamentals series on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram by posting a photo with the hashtag #inhousepatternsstudio.
All My Best,
Alexandra
]]>In this week's video, I'm finishing the pattern work we started last week and giving you some inside information about darts. I'll show you how to true darts and determine the dart roof, what direction to press the dart volume and why you might want to break the general rule. I'm also going to show you how you can manage large dart volumes for a smoother fit.
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I've got a new episode of Pattern Fundamentals for you!
In this week's video, I'm finishing the pattern work we started last week and giving you some inside information about darts. I'll show you how to true darts and determine the dart roof, what direction to press the dart volume and why you might want to break the general rule. I'm also going to show you how you can manage large dart volumes for a smoother fit.
Watch now so you can put it all into action today!
As I mentioned in the video, get your FREE DOWNLOAD containing a set of scaled block patterns to practice your pattern work. Click the image below to get started!
Share your pattern work from the Pattern Fundamentals series on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram by posting a photo with the hashtag #inhousepatternsstudio.
See you next week!
All My Best,
Alexandra
]]>Say hello to the month of May and a new series on the blog.
This month I'm presenting Pattern Fundamentals. A series highlighting the skills you'll need to master in order to manipulate patterns for fit and style. With fitting adjustments, pattern adjustments follow so in order to understand how to make pattern adjustments correctly, you need to understand how patterns work. Follow along with me this month to learn some essential professional pattern making techniques.
]]>Say hello to the month of May and a new series on the blog.
This month I'm presenting Pattern Fundamentals, a series highlighting the skills you'll need to master in order to manipulate patterns for fit and style. With fitting adjustments, pattern adjustments follow so in order to understand how to make pattern adjustments correctly, you need to understand how patterns work. Follow along with me this month to learn some essential professional pattern making techniques.
In this week's video, I cover the two essential pattern manipulation techniques. Watch now to discover what they are and learn how to do them.
As I mentioned I have another FREE DOWNLOAD for you. In this one, you get a set of scaled block patterns so you can work through all the featured pattern making exercises with me. Click the image below to get started!
If you would like to share your pattern work in the FREE Facebook Group, click the image below to join! I'll see you there.
All My Best,
Alexandra
]]>Today's video is all about fit assessment. I’m going to show you what good fit looks like, how to recognize fitting issues and the fitting order to follow that will keep everything on track.
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And here it is! The fourth and final video in the Fitting Fundamentals series. If you've missed the first few, click the links below to get started.
FITTING FUNDAMENTALS: Why Fitting is Difficult and How to Make it Easier
FITTING FUNDAMENTALS: Three Fitting Methods to Improve Your Fitting
FITTING FUNDAMENTALS: The First Fitting Session-How to Prepare Yourself and the Garment
Today's video is all about fit assessment. I’m going to show you what good fit looks like, how to recognize fitting issues and the fitting order to follow that will keep everything on track.
Watch now to see it in action!
As I mentioned in the video, you can download The Good Fit Checklist absolutely FREE. Just click on the image below to get started.
I hope this video and the entire series has given you some idea of how to get a successful start with fitting your sewing projects. If you're new to fitting, start with something simple so you can get a "win" and move to more complicated things as you gain confidence.
If you enjoyed this series on fitting, you might enjoy some of the other video tutorials that I’ve posted. You can go to the In-House Patterns blog or visit my Youtube Channel to get access to those resources.
Learn everything you need to know about drafting, refining and fitting your very own stretch knit skirt or bodice block. These online courses are fully supported by the instructor and can be taken at your own pace because your access never expires. Click on the image below to discover all the details.
Want to stay in the loop and convene with like-minded creatives? Join me in the private Facebook group. I'd love to have you join the conversation! Click the image below and I'll meet you there to let you in.
All My Best,
Alexandra
]]>In the third instalment of this month's series on Fitting Fundamentals I'm showing you how to prepare yourself and your garment for the first fitting.
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Welcome, to the third video in the Fitting Fundamentals series!
If you’ve missed the first few videos, just click the links below:
FITTING FUNDAMENTALS: Why Fitting is Difficult and How to Make it Easier
FITTING FUNDAMENTALS: Three Fitting Methods to Improve Your Fitting
Today's video is all about preparing for the first fitting session. Now, you’re probably thinking “what’s to prepare, just sew it up and take a look” right? Well, I’m going to suggest you do a little bit more than that to make sure that the first sample you create fits relatively well and if it's not quite there, you'll be able to assess the fit more quickly and easily.
Watch now to find out how.
As I mentioned in the video, you can download The Pattern Measurement Worksheet absolutely FREE. Click the image below to get started.
If you have a few thoughts to share, just comment below. If you'd like to join the conversation in the private Facebook Group, I'd love to invite you in. Click the image below to request access.
All My Best,
Alexandra
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Here is the second instalment of this month's series on Fitting Fundamentals. Today's video discusses the three fitting methods that will help you assess the fit of your garment.
]]>Today's video discusses the three fitting methods that will help you assess the fit of your garment. Each one of these methods is usually discussed on their own but I'm going to suggest we use them in combination. Watch the video to learn how to to do that. If you have some of your own tips and tricks you'd like to share please do so in the comments!
Enjoy!
As I mentioned in the video, you can download The Perfect Fit Guide absolutely FREE. Click the image below to get started.
Here are the other resources I mentioned:
Create the Perfect Fit, Joi Mahon
Pants For Real People, Patti Palmer
The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, Sarah Veblen
Palmer Pletsch Fitting Order for Tops FREE PDF
Palmer Pletsch Tissue Fitting Alteration Worksheet FREE PDF
All My Best,
Alexandra
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Throughout the month of April, I'll be presenting some of the essential information you need to improve your fitting skills in a series I'm calling Fitting Fundamentals. Today's video discusses the four reasons fitting is difficult and gives you some strategies that will make it easier for you.
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Enjoy!
As I mentioned in the video, you can download a FREE mini guide to photographing your sewing projects for accurate fit assessment. Click the bar below to get started.
If you'd like to join the In-House Patterns Studio community, visit the new Facebook group. I'll meet you there to let you in!
All My Best,
Alexandra
]]>
Enjoy!
]]>Enjoy!
]]>This video addresses both narrow and broad shoulder adjustments with a side note about the shoulder slope.
The next video features the Sophie dress, which I think is perfect for parties. I'm sure you have a few of those coming up! Get it now for 20% OFF! Click the image below to get a copy of the PDF pattern before the sale expires on Friday, November 25th, 2016.
Here is the video!
Enjoy!
All My Best,
Alexandra
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This video covers three ways to make a sway back adjustment for patterns without a waist seam. I think there's one in there you've never seen before. Two methods are quite popular but as always, I give a bit more detail.
If you've tried any of these methods, let me know how it worked out for you in the comments.
]]>Next week I will also be sharing my technique of making a full bust adjustment on a dartless pattern, so be sure to come back and check that out.
For now, let's deal with the full bust adjustment for a pattern with a side bust dart.
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…or… perhaps I didn’t really know any better. Maybe I wasn’t as fussy, maybe the styles of the time were more forgiving, maybe my 8 years as a fit technician make me see things a lot differently now. Whatever the case, those times have disappeared.
I am fussy about fit.
Weird pulls, pooling fabric and draglines make me crazy! Even when I see them on someone else! Seriously, I dream about fitting! I want to fix it, make it better, no, make it perfect!
So, if you feel this way too, what are we to do?
We know sewing our own clothing gives us the opportunity to create truly unique clothing that fits perfectly. But how do we get there when sewing patterns seem to have the same fitting issues as the clothing you can buy in a shop? Wasn’t it the ill-fitting shop clothing that brought us to sewing in the first place?
Well, we can continue on our way, making our standard pattern corrections to each of our sewing projects, applying them to each new style, and hoping that the fabric pattern will disguise the issues we didn’t quite know how to fix. After all, it’s not just about looking amazing in our clothing. It’s about craftsmanship, skill building and a sense of pride and accomplishment. We’ll just keep trying and learning and sewing, because sewing is the fun part. Right?
But is sewing fun if you don’t wear what you made because of poor fit? Is your beautifully sewn, unique garment in that expensive fabric making the closet feel good? Do you pull it out to show your friends every time they come over? Are they begging you to make them a “closet dress” too?
If you’re anything like me, you probably put that beautifully sewn, unique garment in that expensive fabric on every once in a while, convincing yourself you’ll wear it this time, but always end up changing into something else before you leave the house!
To change that scenario, change your perspective.
If you want to feel a really intense sense of accomplishment I challenge you to take time for fitting. Not just a few extra minutes or an hour, a full sewing day. I want you to really look at the pattern, measure it, compare it to your body measurements, put the pieces together as if you were sewing it; really study it.
Sew up a muslin sample. (By the way, I saw you roll your eyes there! I have to tell you, when I worked as a fit technician, we required three fitting samples for every style!) I know muslins aren’t new to you but I want you to think about them differently, really make a study of the garment, really take the time to assess it. With a new perspective things always look different. Be open to discovering something new. Don’t gloss over that funny wrinkle, this time…try a new fix…then make another sample…and another if necessary.
This process is not a waste of time, that beautifully sewn, unique garment in that expensive fabric hanging in your closet, unworn, is.
I can guarantee you won't regret the extra time you take with fitting. Did you know those high end designer garments that we look to for inspiration can take hundreds of hours to complete? That garment is assessed over and over until exactly the right look and fit is achieved. When you take that extra fitting time and that project is finally complete you will be overcome with pride and joy. You absolutely will!
If you are interested in accepting this challenge and putting a greater focus on fitting your sewing projects, I’ve put together The Perfect Fit Guide for you. If you don’t have your copy yet, you can get it here. It’s absolutely FREE, so there is really no reason not to have it on hand for reference. It will walk you through the fitting process step by step and may help you see fitting from a completely new perspective.
Once you've reviewed the guide I'd love to hear what you think. Leave a comment below if you'd like to share a fitting experience.
If you'd like to explore the step by step process outlined in The Perfect Fit Guide, check out the FREE Fitting Fundamentals video series by clicking the image below.
I've got in-person workshops available that will help you put all the steps into action. Learn more about the Fitting Fundamentals Workshops by clicking the image below.
]]>French binding is a versatile bias binding technique that is used to enclose the raw edges of light weight and sheer fabrics. The finish is quite beautiful around necklines and armholes when neatly and meticulously done in either matching or contrast colours or fabrics.
The recently released Chelsea blouse neckline is finished using this technique so I wanted to pass along some tips and techniques for achieving a really beautiful ready to wear finish using this pattern.
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The recently released Chelsea blouse neckline is finished using this technique so I wanted to pass along some tips and techniques for achieving a really beautiful ready to wear finish using this pattern.
For this tutorial, I am using the Front, Back and Neckband from the Chelsea blouse pattern. I'm using partial Front and Back Patterns for the sake of clarity and to focus on the French binding technique. You'll also notice that I've used a very sheer georgette fabric to show how this technique can be used on the finest fabrics.
Cutting on the Bias
Cutting on true bias can be a bit tricky in really sheer and light weight fabrics. To help control the fabric while cutting, I place a bed sheet on my cutting table first then lay the fabric on top of it. The slight texture of the sheet grabs the fabric and prevents if from slipping about. Just be sure your fabric is laid in such a way that the lengthwise and crosswise grain lines are perpendicular to each other (at 90 degrees) so that you are sure you are cutting on true bias. If the neckband is cut off bias grain, the finish won't be as neat and attaching it to the neckline will be more challenging so take your time here.
For the most accurate cutting, I place my grid ruler on top of the pattern and trace around the edges of the pattern using a chalk wheel. The ruler acts as a weight and gives me a straight edge to run the chalk along. Applying pressure to the ruler stabilizes the yarns and prevents them from shifting while I trace. Once I have the piece traced, I remove the pattern and cut along the chalk lines. This technique gives me the most control over my cut edges.
Stitching Seams on Sheer Fabrics
Neckline and Neckband Prep
Prepare the neckline by stitching 1/4" (0.6 cm) away from the raw edge to reinforce the corner of the V neckline. I use a regular 2.5mm stitch length and start and stop about 1" from the center front on each side. To keep the machine from "eating" this delicate fabric, I place some one-ply facial tissue under the seam as I stitch. It is also really helpful if your machine has a "walking foot". (If your machine isn't equipped with one, see if you can get an attachment, it is so helpful on many projects.) Clip into the center of the V to meet the stitch line. This step will keep your neckline free on any puckering at the center front neckline when you attach the Neckband or binding.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams together. The pattern instructions give direction for a regular serge finished seam but for sheer fabrics, use a French seam. It pairs beautifully with the French binding and looks pretty inside and out. Since the seam allowances on the Chelsea pattern are 3/8" (1 cm), stitch a seam using 1/8" seam allowance with wrong sides together then again using 1/4" seam allowance with right sides together. I used the tissue paper trick when sewing the tiny 1/8" seam. Tear away the tissue and press the seam allowance open, it makes the final 1/4" seam fall into place naturally.
To prepare the Neckband for attachment to the neckline, fold it in half lengthwise with the wrong sides facing each other. This creates a folded crease line which will help us later in the process. You will find that when you do this, the neckband will stretch and get narrower. Since I have drafted the Neckband to fit on the neckline of the pattern perfectly, please resist the urge to cut off the extra length. Instead, bring your Neckband pattern piece to the pressing station and reshape and press the neckband to match the length of the Neckband pattern piece. The width of the folded Neckband will be 1 1/16" which is exactly what we'll need for a beautiful finish.
Now I know all the other tutorials you've read say to cut the binding wider and stretch press it, but please don't do this if you are using the Neckband pattern piece included in the Chelsea pattern. If you want to make your own bias binding strip instead of using the pattern piece provided, go right ahead, but you will need to determine the cutting width of the binding in a trial and error fashion based on your chosen fabric. You want your folded bias piece to be at least 1" wide for this technique to work.
The Neckband Seam
Using a 1/4" seam allowance, join the Neckband seam to create a circle. I used the tissue paper trick again to keep the seam from stretching while I sewed the seam. Remove the tissue, press the seam allowance open and fold the Neckband in half again.
Attaching the Neckband
Matching the Neckband seam to the left shoulder seam, pin the Neckband to the neckline on the right side of the garment. This takes a very gentle hand to ensure that the neckline and the Neckband don't get stretched out. You want the neckline and the Neckband to remain the same length. (The photo below shows the garment wrong side out.)
With the body section facing up, stitch the Neckband to the neckline using 1/4" seam allowance. When you get to the center front V be sure to include the reinforcement stitching in the seam. If you can't catch it, don't worry, you can remove the reinforcement stitch later.
Binding the Seam
Press the seam allowance up, toward the Neckband then wrap the seam allowance with the Neckband so that the folded edge just covers the stitch line. I like to pin along the seam line to ensure the folded edge will be caught neatly and evenly in the next step.
With the right side of the garment facing up, crack stitch (stitch in the ditch) along the seam line of the Neckband. Control the bound edge with a gentle hand to ensure you don't stretch the neckline. The goal here is to hide or bury the machine stitches in the seam line so that they are not visible on the outside of the garment and catch the folded edge of the binding on the inside of the garment.
Finishing
In this final step we give the neckline a defined V shape with a few stitches across the center front Neckband. With the inside of the garment facing out, fold the front neckline in half by stacking the shoulder seams directly on top of each other. At center front, stitch the binding together at a 45 degree angle from the edge of the Neckband. This stitching line will be in line with the center front of the body. Turn the garment right side out and press neatly.
The French bound neckline is complete!
Crack stitching takes practice and patience so if you aren't up to the challenge you can easily eliminate the machine stitching and hand stitch the binding on the inside instead. Finishing it by hand is quite beautiful as well and actually will create a softer more supple neckline. Either way you now have a very beautiful finish on the neckline.
Feel free to share your tips and tricks for working with delicate fabrics in the comments!
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The Chelsea blouse sewing pattern is a modern pull over top available in two style options with interchangeable sleeves. The forward slanting side seams and loose, airy fit create a beautiful and flattering silhouette. With multiple fabric combination possibilities, this pattern is extremely versatile.
View A is tunic length and features a scoop front neckline finished with the beautiful French binding technique. The tulip sleeves add to the airy feel and make this version very feminine. The curved hemlines of the sleeve and body are elegantly finished with a tiny machine rolled hem. This version is a perfect pairing with slim leg pants or leggings.
View B features a V shaped neckline also finished with the French binding technique. The sleeves on this version are simplified to highlight the use of a lace fabric back but the tulip sleeves from View A are easily used here if you choose. Hems are hand finished with a blind stitch hemming technique. This version has a clean modern feel and would pair perfectly with those new culottes, a pair of tailored shorts or a slim fitting skirt.
I love the look and feel of softly draping fabrics and they work so beautifully with this pattern. I've used coordinating crepe de chine fabrics for View A and a lightweight georgette paired with a beautiful lace fabric (purchased from Blackbird Fabrics) for View B.
As mentioned, the fit is loose and airy so keep your fabrics light with some good drape. Slight sheerness or transparency will keep this blouse from looking too boxy and really give it a designer feel. There is lot's of opportunity to play with different fabrics with this top so get creative! Keep in mind that any contrasting fabrics should have the same hang or drape effect for the best results. Take a peek at the Chelsea board on Pinterest for some ideas.
As with all In-House Patterns, this is a multi-sized PDF download sewing pattern available in women's sizes. Seam and hem allowances are included and detailed garment assembly instructions are provided. Get yardage and finished measurements here.
The Chelsea blouse is quick and easy to sew. All you'll need is your fabric, sewing thread and a little time. I hope you enjoy!
]]>Sleeves too tight? I've got the quickest and easiest solution to that fitting problem right here! The method I will be showing here works really well for those sleeves that fit perfectly around the armhole area but are just a little too tight and restrictive around the bicep area. This is my go-to method because is doesn't affect any other part of the garment and will give approximately 1" (2.5 cm) of extra ease right where it's needed most. I'm using the Blossom blouse mid-length sleeve in this tutorial. Here we go!
Begin this pattern adjustment by drawing in the seam lines. Since I'm using the Blossom blouse sleeve here I've indicated seam allowances of 3/8" (1 cm). If you are using a different pattern, use the seam allowance width indicated for that pattern.
Next draw in the slash lines at the centre sleeve and the bicep as shown. Slash along these lines from seam line to seam line on the inside of the pattern then slash from the cutting line to the seam line from the outside of the pattern, leaving hinges where indicated on the illustration.
To increase the bicep, gently spread the pattern piece by the amount that you want to add to the bicep width. Allow the pattern to overlap along the bicep line. Secure in place. Notice that the sleeve cap height is reduced and the bicep becomes wider yet all outside seam lines remain unchanged. The maximum width change will be approximately 1" (2.5 cm) with this method.
Smooth out any jagged curves by blending to existing seam and cutting lines. Redraw the centre sleeve and bicep line. Your bicep width adjustment is complete.
To decrease the bicep, gently overlap the centre lines by the amount you want to remove from the bicep. Allow the pattern to spread along the bicep line. Secure in place. Notice that the sleeve cap height is increased and the bicep becomes narrower yet all outside seam lines remain unchanged. The maximum width change will be approximately 1" (2.5 cm) with this method.
Smooth out any jagged curves by blending to existing seam and cutting lines. Redraw the centre sleeve and bicep line. Your bicep width adjustment is complete.
Enjoy your new and better fitting sleeve!
]]>This method of constructing the front fly zipper is a variation on the one I used in the assembly instructions for the Claire and Ellen patterns. The method I show here is a little more streamlined and gives very consistent and professional results. Give it a try and see what you think.
]]>I am demonstrating this process by using the Claire shorts pattern. No matter what pattern you are using, you will need the Front, Fly Facing and Fly Guard pieces. Add to that any interfacing that is required and the zipper. For Claire (and Ellen) you will need the Zipper Stabilizer and Front Facing interfacing pieces as well as your zipper shortened to 4 1/2" if required.
Transfer the notches that indicate center front and the zipper offset position. Mark the small dot position. Fuse the interfacing to their appropriate pieces.
On the Right Front only, cut off and discard the 3/8" (1 cm) zipper extension. The Left Front must have this extension so that the zipper can be offset from center front by 3/8". It is this extension that prevents the zipper from showing on the face of the garment. (It's really important)
To prepare the Fly Guard, fold it with right sides together and stitch the lower curved edge using 1/4" (0.6 cm) seam allowance. Trim to 1/8" (0.3 cm) and turn right sides out. Press. Serge finish the vertical raw edge.
To prepare the Fly Facing, serge finish the curved edge.
Prepare the Front pieces by serge finishing the front and back rises.
Set the zipper to the Fly Guard. The zipper tape should be flush with the top edge and the serged edge of the zipper guard.
Now you are ready to begin assembling the front fly. Begin by pressing the Left Front zipper extension toward the wrong side by 3/8" (1 cm). Then set the folded edge of the next to the zipper teeth and edge stitch the Left Front section to the Zipper Guard.
Now prepare the Right Front by attaching the Fly Facing using a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance. Press the seam allowance toward the Fly Facing and under stitch.
Press the Fly Facing toward the wrong side along the center front seam line.
If you are following along with the assembly instructions for the Claire shorts or Ellen Pants, proceed as outlined in the pattern instructions by preparing the Back sections then joining the side seams and inseams of the Front and Back together. Otherwise, you may continue as below and join Front to Back at a later stage.
With correct sides together, place the Left Front on top of the Right Front. Align the center front notches and the small dots.
Stitch the rise seam together using a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch at the small dot to secure the fly opening.
Now it is time to stitch the other side of the zipper tape to the Fly Facing. Begin by laying the Front sections down with the Fly Guard facing up and the Fly Facing extended. Check to be sure the center front notches are aligned. Stitch the zipper to the Fly Facing.
Organize the Front sections so they are laying flat out in front of you. Stitch the Fly Facing to the Right Front using 1/4" seam allowance. I use the edge of my presser foot and guide it along the edge of the Fly Facing, this way I get a great looking topstitch every time. Continue stitching until you can go no further. Be sure to keep the Fly Guard free.
Turn your work so that you see the face of the garment and the Fly Guard in position. Finish the topstitching at the bottom of the fly opening through all layers. Then tack the Fly Guard to the Front through all layers to prevent it from flipping back and forth.
Your Front Fly is finished!
]]>Inserting a front placket can be challenging. It definitely requires intermediate to advanced sewing skills but with practice and patience anyone can achieve a professional looking placket. I suggest doing a trial run (or two) if this technique is new to you.
Here is the method used to insert the front placket into the Diana blouse pattern.
Inserting a front placket can be challenging. It definitely requires intermediate to advanced sewing skills but with practice and patience anyone can achieve a professional looking placket. I suggest doing a trial run (or two) if this technique is new to you.
Here is the method used to insert the front placket into the Diana blouse pattern.
To transfer notches, simply make a small snip into the seam allowance of the fabric. Remember that the seam allowance used here is 1/4" so make your snip about 1/8" or less.
To transfer the small dots, use a marking pen/pencil or tracing paper. It is important that the small dots are transferred accurately so make sure they are perfectly positioned on each piece. The dots will be 1/4" (0.6 cm) from each raw edge.
Choose one pair of the front plackets and fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. These fused pieces will become the Outer Front Placket, meaning these are the pieces that will show on the outside of the garment. The remaining Front Plackets (without interfacing) will be the Front Placket Facings and will show on the inside of the garment.
Place one Outer Front Placket and one Front Placket Facing together with correct sides of the fabric facing each other. Do the same with the remaining pieces.
Stitch along the centre front (un-notched) edge using 1/4" seam allowance. Be sure to back stitch at the start and end of the seam.
Press the seam allowances toward the Front Placket Facings. I find this easiest to do from the correct side of the pieces. (I am using the term "correct side" to indicate the right side or face of the fabric.)
Under stitch the seam allowance to the Front Placket Facing. Under stitching makes the edge of the placket nice and crisp and helps with turning the facing under so that the seam line isn't visible on the correct side of the garment.
Press along the seam line. Roll the seam line edge toward the facing side to prevent it from showing on the outside of the garment.
When you're done, you will have a pair of perfectly prepped Front Plackets ready to set to the Front.
(Say that five times really quickly just for fun!)
Begin by placing the Front section on the table in front of you with the correct side of the fabric facing up. Place the Front Plackets on top with the Outer Front Placket against the correct side of the Front. Match the notches and the small dots through all layers. The position of the small dots are extremely important here so take some time to line them up exactly.
Stitch the Front Plackets to the Front using a 1/4" seam allowance. Stop stitching exactly on the small dot. Backstitch to secure.
Clip into the corners of the Front at a 45 degree angle to meet the small dot. Be extra careful not to clip past the stitching line. Do not clip into the Front Plackets.
Press the seams of the front plackets and arrange the plackets so that they are lapped right over left on the outside of the garment. Be sure they are stacked exactly on top of each other. Allow the "triangular" seam allowance at the bottom of the placket to sit on top for now, we will flip it to the inside in the next step.
With the Front section on the table in front of you, roll the bottom hem up toward the neckline to expose the the bottom edge of the Front Plackets and the "triangular" seam allowance of the Front placket opening. (Here is where you will flip that triangular seam allowance to the inside of the garment.) Check again to be sure that the plackets are stacked directly on top of each other.
Stitch the "triangular" seam allowance to the Front Plackets through all layers, from small dot to small dot. Be careful not to catch the folded edge of the Front section, if you do, it will create puckering on the outside of your garment.
Unroll the bottom hem to check your work. The Front Plackets should be securely stitched to the Front without any puckering or raw edges showing on the outside.
The last step is to serge or otherwise edge finish the seam allowance of the placket opening. Give it a good press.
That's it! You are finished with the placket insertion. Don't worry if it didn't work out the first time perfectly, it does take a little practice. This is a great technique to master as it will come in handy if you are ever confronted with welt pockets or bound buttons holes. In any case I hope you found the tutorial helpful. Please comment if you have any questions or you need any clarification.
]]>As you may already know I am an Instructor in the fashion department at a local post secondary school. This year I took on several new courses and have been spending nearly every available moment planning the course content and projects for this year's students. I tend to put a lot of time and energy into planning because I feel that it's important for the students to have a valuable experience and I don't like being ill-prepared for anything.
This will be my second year of teaching and I think I learn even more about fashion while teaching it than I ever did studying it. When you are forced to present an idea to someone else, it is imperative that you understand it completely first. I've always known this but nothing makes this clearer than standing up in front of a group of students who are looking to you for knowledge and guidance.
I've had many "Ah-ha" moments as well as a few surprises this year. For instance, it has become clear to me that spatial reasoning is a key ingredient to understanding pattern making. Spatial reasoning is the ability to deal with how objects relate in two and three dimensions; it is the ability to visualize what something will look like within the mind. This is something I took for granted until I found that some students find this challenging and others find it very easy. You can take your own spatial reasoning test if you are curious how you would score. My score is on the average side of things but it's something I constantly try to improve on.
If you're looking for a challenge, try the Pattern Puzzles from Studio Faro . After a short while I found I had an unbearable desire to physically manipulate the shapes. I guess I am a very tactile person. Probably the reason I prefer draping over flat pattern making.
My understanding of pattern making comes purely through practice and experimentation. It's extremely time consuming to perfect your pattern making skills and perseverance seems to be a key ingredient. I actually wish I had spent more time perfecting my skills throughout my career. I believe pattern making has become a lost art and I would like to play a small part in reviving it if possible. Hopefully one or two of my students will find some joy in the process and create beautiful things with the knowledge they gain. I think there are enough $5 T-Shirts constructed under dubious conditions in the marketplace. I'm hoping our up and coming designers bring things to a new level-something akin to Christian Dior in 1947 with a fresh and modern twist. I think it's time for a change. Don't you?
Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum of Art
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]]>"I just purchased your cowl neck pattern. I was so pleased that your patterns are made for a D cup. Now that the pattern is made up I have a problem. The drape is so low that the bottom band of my bra shows:-( So, I looked up one of your blogs to see what to do about it. Your solution is to fold out (or overlap) from the CF waist. But this will reduce the front bust circumference, and I can't "afford" to make it any tighter across the bust. Is there any other way to raise the drape? I can wear the top, but have to pin it together to keep the drape from revealing more than is modest."
"I just purchased your cowl neck pattern. I was so pleased that your patterns are made for a D cup. Now that the pattern is made up I have a problem. The drape is so low that the bottom band of my bra shows:-( So, I looked up one of your blogs to see what to do about it. Your solution is to fold out (or overlap) from the CF waist. But this will reduce the front bust circumference, and I can't "afford" to make it any tighter across the bust. Is there any other way to raise the drape? I can wear the top, but have to pin it together to keep the drape from revealing more than is modest."
First I want to address that the pattern does have a low front neck drop. The depth that the cowl hangs on each individual will depend on two things; your bust position (how high or low your bust level is) and your fabric choice. If you choose a rather stable knit that has more structure, the cowl will not hang as low as on a finer knit fabric with less structure. Your personal bust position and the fabric you choose are two things that I an unable to account for when designing patterns so I always suggest that you make up a "muslin" in similar fabric to test the fit.
Second, I have two ways you can adjust the pattern for a higher front neck drop for a little more "modesty". You will find a full tutorial on one method in the blog post: The E-F-G Bust Adjustment but I will summarize here for your convenience. Please see the original post for greater detail.
1. Draw the slash line:
2. Slash, Overlap, and Reshape:
You will notice with the above adjustment, as Marta cleverly pointed out, the bust circumference will be reduced across the front. To address Marta's question, I have another pattern adjustment technique that will keep the bust circumference as is, while still reducing the front neck drop. The steps of the pattern adjustment are the same it is just the location of the slash lines that are different.
1. Draw the slash line that extends from the side seam (at a 90 degree angle) to around the bust point area. Draw a second slash line extending from the first (at a 90 degree angle) to the cutting line of the cowl facing. Make sure the second slash line is beyond the shoulder/neckline notch or you will reduce the shoulder width instead of the front neck drop.
2. Slash along the slash lines leaving a hinge at the armhole/side seam intersection. From this point, close (overlap) the pattern sections to reduce the front neck drop. Then reshape the cutting lines of the cowl facing so they are nice and smooth. Be sure to keep a 90 degree angle at the CF/Facing edge.
As the illustration points out, the length of the line from the shoulder/neckline notch to the CF line is the approximate front neck drop measurement. The shorter this line, the higher the neckline will become.
Thank you Marta for your question, I hope this little tutorial helps more of you with your pattern fitting adjustments.
Have a great day!
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You can find her review of the pattern by following these links:
In-House Patterns: Blossom Blouse
*side note: I gave Katrina the non-overlapping page version to test but the pattern is now only available in the original format with overlapping page margins due to popular demand. I will be working on adding a "print shop" file format to future patterns.
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