In Fitting Fashion / fitting

  • A New Take on the Full Bust Adjustment

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  • Fit! Fit! Fit! The Great Frustration

    Do you remember a time when you could take any sewing pattern right out of the envelope and it would fit? I do! It was glorious! No measuring, no adjustments…not a thing to do but cut and sew… …or… perhaps I didn’t really know any better. Maybe I wasn’t as fussy, maybe the styles of the time were more forgiving, maybe my 8 years as a fit technician make me see things a lot differently now. Whatever the case, those times have disappeared. I am fussy about fit. Weird pulls, pooling fabric and draglines make me crazy! Even when I...

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  • Sleeve Fitting: How to Adjust Bicep Width

    How to Adjust Bicep Width
    Sleeves too tight?  Too loose?  I've got the quickest and easiest solution to that fitting problem on the blog!
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  • The Cowl Front Neck Drop Adjustment

    Yesterday I got a great question from Marta who recently purchased the Cool Cowl Tank pattern:

    "I just purchased your cowl neck pattern. I was so pleased that your patterns are made for a D cup. Now that the pattern is made up I have a problem. The drape is so low that the bottom band of my bra shows:-( So, I looked up one of your blogs to see what to do about it. Your solution is to fold out (or overlap) from the CF waist. But this will reduce the front bust circumference, and I can't "afford" to make it any tighter across the bust. Is there any other way to raise the drape? I can wear the top, but have to pin it together to keep the drape from revealing more than is modest."

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  • Back Contour Shaping

    It seems that my previous posts about fitting the back shoulder and neckline are quite popular so I will revisit the gaping back neckline issue I discussed in one of the fitting posts for Vogue 8664.  Remember this?         As you can see, I corrected the gaping back neckline issue by adding a dart which eliminated the excess length in the neckline and addressed the contour of the shoulder blade.  In most basic block patterns this back contour shaping is addressed by a shoulder dart which is usually placed at the middle of the shoulder seam and points...

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