In Fitting Fashion

  • Sleeve Fitting: How to Adjust Bicep Width

    How to Adjust Bicep Width

    Sleeves too tight?  I've got the quickest and easiest solution to that fitting problem right here!  The method I will be showing here works really well for those sleeves that fit perfectly around the armhole area but are just a little too tight and restrictive around the bicep area.  This is my go-to method because is doesn't affect any other part of the garment and will give approximately 1" (2.5 cm) of extra ease right where it's needed most.  I'm using the Blossom blouse mid-length sleeve in this tutorial.  Here we go!

    Draw in the Seam Lines

    Begin this pattern adjustment by drawing in the seam lines.  Since I'm using the Blossom blouse sleeve here I've indicated seam allowances of 3/8" (1 cm).  If you are using a different pattern, use the seam allowance width indicated for that pattern.

    Draw in the Slash Lines

    Next draw in the slash lines at the centre sleeve and the bicep as shown.  Slash along these lines from seam line to seam line on the inside of the pattern then slash from the cutting line to the seam line from the outside of the pattern, leaving hinges where indicated on the illustration.  

    Increasing the Bicep Width

    To increase the bicep, gently spread the pattern piece by the amount that you want to add to the bicep width.  Allow the pattern to overlap along the bicep line.  Secure in place.  Notice that the sleeve cap height is reduced and the bicep becomes wider yet all outside seam lines remain unchanged. The maximum width change will be approximately 1" (2.5 cm) with this method.  

    Blend and Redraw Lines

    Smooth out any jagged curves by blending to existing seam and cutting lines.  Redraw the centre sleeve and bicep line.  Your bicep width adjustment is complete.

    Decreasing Bicep Width

    To decrease the bicep, gently overlap the centre lines by the amount you want to remove from the bicep.  Allow the pattern to spread along the bicep line.  Secure in place.  Notice that the sleeve cap height is increased and the bicep becomes narrower yet all outside seam lines remain unchanged. The maximum width change will be approximately 1" (2.5 cm) with this method.  

    Blend and Redraw Lines

    Smooth out any jagged curves by blending to existing seam and cutting lines.  Redraw the centre sleeve and bicep line.  Your bicep width adjustment is complete.

    Enjoy your new and better fitting sleeve!

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