Apr 08, 2012 Pattern Adjustment - Bust, Waist, and Hip Position Today, I will show you the pattern corrections associated with the fitting we did the other day which determined the correct position for the bust, waist, and hip. If you remember, we began with determining the correct position for the bust line and took a 1/4" tuck above the bust all the way around the garment. This 1/4" tuck translates to a 1/2" total length change in the bodice. Once we corrected the bust line position, the waist line position was perfect but the hip line needed to be moved up by 3/4". Correcting the Pattern First, draw a straight line perpendicular to the grain line of the front and back bodice. The lines should be level with each other and placed somewhere above the bust point where it will not interfere with the existing bust dart volume. This line is shown in red in the photo below. Next, draw another line 1/2" above the first line. This is the amount we need to move the pattern's bust line up to coincide with the body we are fitting. This line is shown in green in the photo below. Once you have these guidelines in place, you simply need to fold or overlap the pattern so that the lines meet each other. You will notice that the back dart has been shortened by this correction. Don't worry about this yet, we can address this later when we are looking at the circumference measurements and the fitting at the back bodice. This adjustment was quite small so it has not really distorted the seam line or cutting line shape but if the correction is larger, it may require smoothing the shape of these lines. Since our waist position was good after the bust line correction, we can move to the hip line which needed to be move up by 3/4". You can use the "lengthening and shortening" lines indicated on the pattern but make sure they are above the hip line of the pattern. They are on this pattern, so all I need to do is draw in my guideline 3/4" above the existing adjustment line. Once you have these guidelines in place, you simply need to fold or overlap the pattern so that the lines meet each other. Again, this adjustment was not extreme so it has not really distorted the seam line or cutting line shape but if the correction is larger, it may require smoothing the shape of the side and CB cutting and seam lines. There you have the first set of corrections for Vogue 8664. Now that we have established the correct position for the bust, waist, and hip lines, we can now move to the circumference adjustments and I can get back to that annoying gaping back neckline I alluded to in the first post of the series!
