Feb 09, 2012 Fitting and Pattern Adjustment - The EFG Bust Adjustment In case your wondering, I haven't forgot about you glamorously curvy girls! Here is a post on the EFG Bust Adjustement which is my version of what others call the Full Bust Adjustment. Again, I am showing this correction based on the Belle Bow Blouse, it will be applicable on similar styles. After all the work done earlier this week, showing you this correction is easy because it is the exact opposite of ABC Bust Adjustment. Sorry, no muslin photos of this but I think you get the idea-let me know if you don't! How to recognize if you need the EFG Adjustment: 1. There will be horizontal pulling wrinkles across the bust line. 2. The side seam at chest level will be pulling forward. 3. The side seam at hem level will be slanting toward the front. 4. The front waistline and hemline will be hiking and hanging higher (shorter) than the back. 5. The front hem will be swinging away from the body and the back hem will be collapsing against the body. The horizontal pulling wrinkles indicating insufficient chest width are created because the length of the front of your body at chest level from side seam to side seam is greater than someone with a smaller cup size. The front waist and hem position hikes because the length over your bust from shoulder to waist is longer than someone with a smaller cup size. These differences in the shape of a body change the balance of the garment and creates the fitting issues indicated above. Make sense? How to we fix it? 1. Reposition waistline and hemline by increasing the front length at bust level. Slash and spread to the position that the waist and hem are hanging level with the back and the side seams at the hem are less slanted. 2. Increase the volume of gathers and front waist pleats by adding to the body width at bust level. Increase at each pleat evenly. 3. Side seams will be hanging vertically straight and the bust line, waist line, and hem line will be hanging level with the floor when fitting is complete. 4. The front and back hem will hang away from the body more evenly. 5. The tightness across the chest will be eliminated. The Pattern Correction Step One: Determine your bust point position by trying on your test garment and marking your personal bust point position. Transfer this point to the pattern as shown in the illustration below. (HSP=high shoulder point of the front) Step Two: Prepare the front pattern piece by drawing in the adjustment lines as shown below in red. It is important that the bust line is at 90 degrees from the CF line. The vertical adjustment lines on the lower front - under the bust line, are derived from the center of the pleats. Step Three: Cut along the adjustment lines leaving a hinge at the seam line of the side seam as shown. Step Four and Step Five: Make the front length adjustment first by spreading the upper front sections by the amount indicated on your test garment. The amount added will be the same amount on each section pivoting from zero at the side seam as shown. This amount will vary depending on your individual bust size. Make the front width adjustments next by increasing the depth of the pleats by spreading evenly by the amount indicated on your test garment. The amount added on each pleat must be the same and the bust line must remain at the same level and at a 90 degree angle from the CF line. Make sure your CF line remains perfectly straight too! Step Six: All that's left is to smooth out all the cutting lines and your done! In essence, what we have done is to increase the shaping that has been created by the gathering at the yoke and the pleats at the waist. All the styling remains intact but there will be a little more gathers at the yoke and more volume in the pleats. Super easy right?