Once again, I can't leave you voluptuous gals out of the fitting tutorials! Here is the quick post version of the EFG Bust Adjustment for The Cool Cowl Tank. Please review The ABC Bust Adjustment - Cowl Neck post because all of the fitting issues that are presented for the small bust are exactly the opposite for a full bust.
To summarize, if you need to make the EFG Bust Adjustment you will find that:
- The side seams will be slanting toward the front at bust level and/or
- The cowl neck will be pulling open and giving the appearance of not enough drape.
- The front hemline will be hiking, and hanging shorter than the back.
Your pattern corrections will also be exactly opposite from the ABC Bust Adjustment so follow the same steps as previously presented but opening the pattern instead of closing it. Here is what you should end up with after completing the full bust adjustment.
Now there is just one more thing I want to add and that is a Front Neck Drop Adjustment. In the event that you feel that the cowl neckline is hanging too low, you can easily raise the neckline as shown below.
Draw in the adjustment line. Make it a straight line extending from the CF bottom edge up to approximately the midpoint of the cowl facing between the shoulder/neckline notch and the CF edge.
Cut along the adjustment line leaving a hinge at the CF bottom edge. Overlap (close) the two sections as much as needed to achieve the front neck drop that you would prefer. Reshape and smooth all your cutting lines, redraw the new fold line.
And it's easy peasy done!