In Fitting Fashion

  • The ABC Bust Adjustment - Cowl Neck

     Today, I want to show you the ABC Bust Adjustment for The Cool Cowl Tank.  As you know, In-House Patterns are developed specifically for a D cup size.  This means if you are an A, B, or C cup size, this correction may apply to you when using this pattern.  This adjustment will also be applicable on any similar style.

    I will start with how to recognize when this pattern correction is needed.  Whether you know your actual cup size or not, your test muslin will show specific fitting issues when you need this pattern correction.  Please consider the photo and annotations below:


    To correct these deficiencies follow the simple steps as shown below:

    Step One:

    Prepare the front pattern piece by drawing in the adjustment lines as shown below in red.  The bust will be drawn 90 degrees from the center front and the side seam, intersecting at the bust point.  The vertical line is a straight line from the bottom edge of CF through the bust point.

    Step Two:

    Cut along the adjustment lines leaving a hinge at the side seam and at the CF bottom edge as shown:

    Step Three:

    As always, make the length adjustment first by overlapping the upper front sections by the amount indicated on your test garment.  Be sure to keep the CF line straight.  The amount overlapped will be the same amount on each section pivoting from zero at the side seam as shown.  This amount will vary depending on your individual bust size.

    Step Four:

    Make the front width adjustment next by swinging the side of the bodice on the hinge at CF and reducing the pattern width at the bust level by the amount indicated on your test garment.  The total amount overlapped will depend on your individual cup size.

    Step Five:

    Smooth out the cutting lines at the cowl facing edge and side seam.  Establish the new fold line for the cowl neck facing and you are done!

    In essence, what we have done is to remove the excess length and width through the cowl styling.  All the styling remains intact but the neckline will sit slightly higher and there will be a little less draping over the front chest which will be much more flattering on a smaller bust.  When the garment is correctly adjusted, the side seams will hang straight and perpendicular to the floor and the hemline will appear straight and level to the floor when worn.

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