Today, I want to show you the ABC Bust Adjustment for The Cool Cowl Tank. As you know, In-House Patterns are developed specifically for a D cup size. This means if you are an A, B, or C cup size,
this correction may apply to you when using this pattern. This
adjustment will also be applicable on any similar style.
I will start with how to recognize when
this pattern correction is needed. Whether you know your actual cup
size or not, your test muslin will show specific fitting issues when you
need this pattern correction. Please consider the photo and
To correct these deficiencies follow the simple steps as shown below:
Prepare the front pattern piece by drawing in the adjustment lines as shown below in red. The bust will be drawn 90 degrees from the center front and the side seam, intersecting at the bust point. The vertical line is a straight line from the bottom edge of CF through the bust point.
Cut along the adjustment lines leaving a hinge at the side seam and at the CF bottom edge as shown:
As always, make the length adjustment first by overlapping the upper front
sections by the amount indicated on your test garment. Be sure to keep the CF line straight. The amount
overlapped will be the same amount on each section pivoting from zero at
the side seam as shown. This amount will vary depending on your
individual bust size.
Make the front width adjustment next by swinging the side of the bodice on the hinge at CF and reducing the pattern width at the bust level by the amount indicated on your test garment. The total amount
overlapped will depend on your individual cup size.
Smooth out the cutting lines at the cowl facing edge and side seam. Establish the new fold line for the cowl neck facing and you are done!
In essence, what we have done is to remove the excess length and width through the cowl styling.
All the styling remains intact but the neckline will sit slightly higher and there will be a little less draping over the front chest which will be much more flattering on a smaller bust. When the garment is correctly adjusted, the side seams will hang straight and perpendicular to the floor and the hemline will appear straight and level to the floor when worn.