In Fitting Fashion

  • Alyce Defty - The Fascinating Art of Creating Patterns

    The Fascinating Art of Creating Patterns by Alyce Defty is now available!  The Durban University of Technology contacted me recently to  announce that it has reprinted the book.    This is a book I first mentioned in my post Base Patterns - Slopers and Blocks.   Although I didn't use the book for my classes due to the complexity of the measurement and the drafting method for beginners, I feel like this book is a great resource to have.  The basic bodice and sleeve draft alone are enticing since I have never seen drafts in other books appear this way.  Unfortunately,...

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  • Belle Bow Blouse Review

     Hi all, I just wanted to share an absolutely superb version of the Belle Bow Blouse made by Susie Homemaker, MD!  Check out her blog post and review here and here! GORGEOUS!

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  • Base Patterns - Slopers and Blocks

    In preparation for my new position as a pattern making instructor at PDA, I spent quite a few hours gathering all the information I could find on basic block development.  Developing master patterns, basic blocks, or slopers as some may call them, is one of the first steps in learning about pattern making and how the flat pattern relates to the 3D body form.  After graduating from a fashion program, you will most likely never use or make blocks again but the process of it provides many learning opportunities.   I have many pattern making books on my shelf so I...

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  • Back Contour Shaping

    It seems that my previous posts about fitting the back shoulder and neckline are quite popular so I will revisit the gaping back neckline issue I discussed in one of the fitting posts for Vogue 8664.  Remember this?         As you can see, I corrected the gaping back neckline issue by adding a dart which eliminated the excess length in the neckline and addressed the contour of the shoulder blade.  In most basic block patterns this back contour shaping is addressed by a shoulder dart which is usually placed at the middle of the shoulder seam and points...

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  • Fitting and Pattern Adjustment - Back Bodice

    We're almost done fitting the bodice of Vogue 8664, we just have a few slight adjustments to make to improve the back pattern.  If you missed any of the progress, catch up by reading the previous posts, I'll wait... 1.  Garment Ease 2.  Fitting - Bust, Waist, Hip Position 3.  Pattern Correction - Bust, Waist, Hip Position 4.  Fitting and Pattern Correction - Back Neckline Gaping 5.  Fitting - Shoulders 6.  Fitting and Pattern Correction - Armhole Great!  Now that you are all caught up.  Let's take a look at the back bodice fitting.  You will remember from last time...

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